January of 2008 was lonely in my house... the winter was raging upstate New York, and Ted and Jacqueline had already asked me to come to visit them in India...I always said: "someday"... it always seemed like it was not going to happen. But not that winter. Without any firm planning in mind, I arranged my trip according to the things I wanted to experience. I have always been an adventurous traveler, and do not like pre-arranged schedules or sight-seeings. I like to do my own explorations, and if I can, immerse myself in the life of the country, learn as much as I can, and by doing so, I have met the most incredible people, and have made the most wonderful and unforgettable experiences.
Some of my friends had been to India... told me of their love of it, or dislike of it. People warned me: "It's not for everyone",... "don't go there alone", "you won't like it", and others envied me.
I had a very vague idea of creating a store by bringing back unique and one-of-a-kind items from India, to sell back home in New York. A first attempt at trying to create a partnership with one Indian friend did not pan out. Too many differences of opinions, and a vast cultural difference, though it never prevented us to remain good friends. All was well.
Having lost the one person who could have guided me through India, I was on my own to organize, and decide where to go, though I had done some reading and my goal was still vague during my flight. I slept for a good part of the long 15 some hours flight... the first time for a non-stop flight from JFK to Mumbai... the old Bombay of the British Empire.
I don't particularly care to fly like those birds... you never know if it's mating season, or if the pilot had a fight at home. What happens if the pilot falls asleep at the controls? ;o)
15 hours flight is a long time to concentrate on that dashboard, isn't? Or maybe he was replaced at the last minute by someone in training, or has a bet with the co-pilot that the six year old sitting in 4C will be a good candidate for a free flying lesson today!
So I get somewhat anxious, and there was not one person on that flight who said a word to me. That's OK, it would be a quiet flight. The plane was not even half full, as most people would prefer flying via Europe and make the journey in two trips. Not me, I wanted to get there asap, and asap was not fast enough. But with the half-full plane almost everyone was able to enjoy three seats across, and with a blanket and a pillow, you're all set. I did not even wake up for food, except once.
I landed in Mumbai late that evening, and I was told to change money immediately at the airport, before catching the driver who would take me to my hotel. Money was changed, but no driver... It was cold outside - unusually so, I was told. But the airport was illuminated as if it was daylight outside. The smell of the airport fuel mixed with the scent of India, is not the most pleasing aspect of landing there, but here I was... and what to do next?
My driver missing, I took a cab to the hotel... not great, dark, old in the sense of not well maintained, or updated... First thing that threw me: no toilet paper! Whhhat? Hey, what's up with that,huh? no toilet paper? It was way past midnight, but I called the desk and asked for toilet paper, and I was delivered the most meager roll of toilet paper in the world!!!
Well, needless to say I tried to find out why so little paper and how do they do without it?
We Americans are spoiled, believe me. When I asked, my question was met with another question: "what would you prefer madam, wiping the s... from your face with paper, or with water?" I chose water... makes sense to me, though I made it a point later to also always carry a small bar of soap.
This is how they do it in the better hotels... the hose next to
the toilet bowl is to wash yourself... as you can see, no toilet paper.
the toilet bowl is to wash yourself... as you can see, no toilet paper.
but when you stop on the road it's more like this or worse
Make sure to take enough toilet paper with you for your trip to India... or do as I did: when in Rome... You will be rewarded in travel adaptability experience points, but no extra mileage on your credit card !
Anyway... it isn't that bad. For the positive thing in the bathroom, I noticed a couple of signs that made me smile in thankfulness, and also because it was rather amusing in that old room. One was to remind to turn the lights off when not in need of them, and also to re-use the towels:
Jet lag... With 9-1/2 hours difference, I could not sleep. The room was quiet enough, but the excitement and the jet lag kept me awake... I could not wait for the morning to arrive, to take my flight to Jaipur. So it was perhaps 5:30am, and I got out to take a walk on the beach, right across the hotel. The tuk-tuks were already jumping all over the road, and it was going to be a busy day in Mumbai:
I took my camera, spent 15 minutes on the beach and on my way back to the hotel, this is the sight that jumped at me:
This little girl touched my heart. No words were spoken, just extended hands, "bakshish, bakshish", begging for money. I gave them some rupees to take their pictures. The homeless people of India... it's amazing, ugly and beautiful at the same time, and heart-breaking.
I spent a few moments, holding the baby, and they were all smiling... with sad eyes.
Most of the young girl will end up as prostitutes, and support their families. They will spend a lifetime of begging, getting AIDS - which is rampant in India, and endure such despair due to their circumstances.
Even though the Indian Constitution has outlawed caste-based discrimination, in keeping with the secular, democratic principles that founded the nation, the caste system, in various forms, continues to survive in modern India because of a combination of political factors and social beliefs and behavior.
I also found out that depending on the Caste ranking, certain jobs are available for that particular Caste. For example, I was told that the man who cleaned the toilets in the hotel was an "Untouchable", as no other Caste members would do that kind of work.
Well, that gave me a good idea now. From now on, I will institute a Caste system in my household. We'll see how that works ! ;o(
Seriously though, I saw many signs of Caste discrimination while I traveled in India... many. It is a sad thing.
Untouchables in Mumbai outside my hotel
I left Mumbai with that sight in my mind, sadness in my heart, and I was wondering why I was there... what will I do, how will I do it. I decided to keep an open mind, absorb India, accept it as it is, and see the good parts and the less good parts with acceptance, and compassion.
En route to Goa on my next blog
